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Tuesday, June 28, 2005
Was in Montana, last weekend. So no work was done on the boat. I am now back to work and tired from the 900 mile drive home from Billings.
I have got more materials to order for the next round of build, but, it might not be this weekend. 3day 4th of Julay weekend coming up. We have a strong desire to take the (small) boat out, drop anchor and sit all weekend. I think that is what we will do and try not to feel guilty about not working on the boat. But, the weekend AFTER next, we gotta get some more done.
On a side note, I have pretty much wrapped up auctioning much of the parts that came with the boat (at least the one worth auctioning that we won't use). Total receipts are near $6000. So, if you do not include the transportation costs, the hull cost us around $10,000. Of course much of that money has already been spent on tools and materials for the build.
Sunday, June 19, 2005
Saturday, June 18, 2005
Monday, June 13, 2005
Sunday, June 12, 2005
Drilled a couple more holes on the side of the hull. Drew 5 gallons of slow catalyzed, 15% acetone thinned resin. The process was more like "vacuum assisted gravity feed". Resin was fed 3 litres at a time over two hours, catalyzed just before it was drawn.
Five gallons took it up to about 5 inches from the bottom of the keel.
There appeared to be minimal heat, if any, released to the outer hull. It appears the compact fine steel punchings absorbed most of it. And, since it was fed 3 litres at a time over two hours the exotherm was also spread out.
Also, the dust collector, which is acting as the vacuum, may be taking away much of the heat.
Tomorrow I will try ten gallons of resin.
Saturday, June 11, 2005
I dumped 5 gallons of catalyzed resin into the keel yesterday. Catalyzed it with 1% catalyst to maximize working time (at 60 degrees F it is about 4-5 hours). I also thinned it with 10% acetone. It was like a very thin corn syrup, but not exactly water. I wanted to see how well it would seep to the bottom. Well, it didn't make it to the bottom at all. Probably not because it cured, but more likely it STUCK to the ballast on the way down (though thin is was still sticky) to leave no resin to hit the bottom.
So, gravity and thinned resin won't be enough. I will have to look into some vacuum approach and draw the resin in from holes in the side of the keel.
Friday, June 10, 2005
While most activities so far have been more "cleanup" oriented, we just started the first "build task"...
Installing the bobstay fitting.
The bobstay is the cable or rod that connects to a fitting at the waterline at the bow up to the underside of the bow to counter the tension of the forestay (installed later).
The bobstay fitting is this fitting at waterline at the bow. It is installed by cutting a six inch slot along the "spine". The fitting is installed from the inside.
So far, we have just cut the slot and "dry fitted" the piece.
This weekend we hope to permanently bed it with adhesive and skin it with mat/roving on the inside (using infusion). I hope to have pictures.
Tuesday, June 07, 2005
I have been doing some resin and infusion experiments in the garage for the past couple days. I have to say, resin infusion is pretty cool. You spend most of your time in the prep: cutting the reinforcement, sealing the bags, positioning the feed and vacuum lines, checking for leaks. Then, when you are all ready, pour some catalyzed resin in the feed pots and turn on the vaccum. Voila! Nice properly wetted fiberglass! With just enough resin and no sticky mess!
The critical points: 1. Address all leaks before infusing resin. Even then, some leaks can be addressed during the infusion process depending on how they formed. 2. Make sure you have enough resin. You don't want to suck air through the feedlines, or you will get air into the laminate.
I have been testing some different flow mediums (stuff you embed in the fiberglass to help the resin flow). But, the surplus fiberglass I have is pretty heavy. I will be getting different samples of fiberglass for more data on how this stuff will flow.
This morning we moved the travelift in to level the hull. The original block had the bow pitched up by about four or five inches.
Leveling the hull will significantly improve building out the interior as one can then use builder's levels, laser levels and framers squares to do a lot of the work.
We used two of the cheap Zircon water level devices from Home Depot. You run a long clear tube, full of water, along the length of the boat. Attach the sounding device at the inscribed waterline. Raise and lower the other end of the tube until you get the right beep. Then match the other end of the boat to the meniscus. Do the same thing on the perpendicular axis.
With that done we can now start giving serious thought to building out the floors.
But, we still have to seal the keel. It is still not dry. Some hot weather this week would help.