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Sunday, August 30, 2009
Got the chainplates from my stainless guy this week. Things took a little longer given his and our own vacation time off over the past two months. No matter. Things are still dry enough up here such that I should be able to get these installed over the next few weeks. All are hand polished 316 stainless steel. While some of the chainplates are similar to the original factory plates, most are different. These were cut and bent specific to the updated rig design we got from Bob Perry's office earlier this year. Including two pairs of "double" chainplates. In these one single plate handles the terminus for two rigging lines. One pair will be the for continuous rigging lines for the double spreader main mast. The other pair will handle two rigging lines, each side, for the mizzen mast. In the end, the actual dollar cost for these ended about the same as if I were to buy a set of original chainplates from World Cruiser. Maybe a little bit more. But I did do the CAD design and parts running between the material supplier, jet cutter and polisher as well as my own machining (countersinks) so there was a number of personal hours (free! lol) put into this.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
First the deck drains. This particular area of the deck is where all of the water drains from. It is about a 6 inch wide recess in the deck and is the lowest point. Original factory installations had water draining to the side via one or two modified scuppers such that the flange of the fittings were cut away to be flush down in the recess so all the water could drain and minimize pooling. Now the previous owner had temporary PVC fittings for drains going down from this recess and out the side through a 2 inch hole in the hull. I had been debating wether to go with this style drain or try something more factory original. Well, I decided to install a hawsecleat in this area, which will be used for spring lines while tied at the dock. This decision effectively forced me to stay with the "down and side exit" drains. For the down drain, I used an ABI 316 stainless steel wide mouth deck scupper, which fits perfectly. It includes a screen plate (not shown). After cutting an oval opening in the deck I used thickened epoxy to "flush up" the deck to the top surface of the scupper to reduce corners and crevaces where water might pool and dirt could build up. This was done by troweling in the thickened epoxy and tapping in the scupper, generously sprayed with mold release agent. The fitting acted as a mold and once the epoxy cured, the scupper was tapped out with a hammer to reveal a perfect mate for the scupper. The scupper was then sealed in with sealant and fastened with screws. On the hawsecleat, it was installed similar to the hawsepipes installed in the bow. Here however, the bulwark is even thicker, almost four inches. So with the 3 inch max width for the fitting I had to improvise by "extending" the pipe with a sleeve of expoxy coated coosa which also acted as a backing plate for the external part of the hawsepipe. The position of the hawsecleat on deck is a potential toe-stubber, but it was the best that could be done while keeping clear of the sloped part of the hull just under the caprail. While the deck drain is 1.5 in diameter, I figure, if that is not enough, should the deck get a bunch of water, the hawsecleat can act as a drain too. The picture shows things kind of rough, and they are. The brown thicked epoxy still needs to be faired and the sealant around the drain trimmed. Save that for when I deal with the deck paint. The port side hawsecleat will have to wait as I need to modify my boarding stairs which are in the way.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Finished installing them last week. Also shown is a sample section of PlastTEAK on the caprail. I know, I know, it doesn't look as good as nice varnished teak, but that is just the point. As much as I appreciate nice looking varnished teak, I DONT WANT to spend time varnishing teak. Hawsepipe installation required a bit of tweaking. The starboard side bulwark was a little too thick than the max width of the hawsepipe, by about 1/8 of an inch, such that it did not fully "mate" with the other half. So I added a little extra Sikaflex in between to act as a gasket. And, the port side was a little too thin, so some of the pipe had to be ground off to get a good mate. All sealed with Sikaflex. The hawsepipes are polished 316 stainless steel from ABI, a company which is no longer. These were the last ones in stock from my supplier. Next I have two hawsecleats, also from ABI, to install amidships.