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Saturday, January 28, 2012

E-Board is In!

Last week I finished cladding the engine room with E-Board. The pictures show how the engine room now looks, plus the first bits of wiring using E-board and zip ties. Running and attaching the wiring went quick and easy. One handy feature of this stuff is that the surface is flat and smooth, making it very easy to label wire runs with a label maker.
This is how the engine room looks.

Wire run example

Wire run example

Wire run example

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Galley Cabinets Are In!

Well, the carcases at least. This is one of those projects that has been "sitting in the corner and ignored" for a while now. The modular frames for the drawers and behind counter storage are now installed permanently. All plumbing runs behind the frames have been installed. There should be no reason to get behind there for the rest of the build.
White painted carcases fitted and secured in place

Some features of this assembly:

  • accessible storage behind counters, under side decks, lower, against hull (nearly dead space)
  • accessible storage underneath bottom drawers, against hull (nearly dead space)
  • space and plumbing service for future (?) dishwasher and washer/dryer. Plumbing and fittings fully accessible
  • plenty of internal air vent holes to promote air circulation
  • accessible upper space, under the side decks, for electrical wiring runs

The drawers seen in the pictures are sample drawers. I have been testing cutting and assembly techniques for the drawer boxes. Generally the tests have gone well and I have learned a lot about which small details affect the final assembly.
Sample drawers fitted
This is also an experiment with different face frame styles. The left and right cabinets are slightly different. I think the one on the right is best.
Left and right drawers have different face frame styles
As you can see the drawers are already taken over by tools and parts used during the build. Its very handy to store fasteners, plumbing fittings, hose clamps, etc on board without going back and forth to the shop. Consider it an ongoing storage experiment!

Final drawers and face frames are next once we have decided on an interior design (wood species, colors, etc).

Saturday, January 21, 2012


It has been sub-freezing weather most of the past week. Mid 20s (F) for a few days. Despite space heaters in the shop and the boat, it is still chilly. I have exhausted most of the shop projects (don't talk to me about shop cleanup please). According to the forecast, warmer temperatures (mid 40s) and rain should wash away the snow soon. Can't wait.

There is a street there somewhere.

One of the boat's cockpit drains.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Various Bits

Its freezing outside and there is snow on the ground, thus it is too cold to spray paint the settee bits. With that on hold I am advancing smaller projects that can be done inshop/inboat (in proximity to the space heaters!). Many of these are in-work, but are oh-so-close to being done.

Domestic Water Tubing Runs
The tubing has been routed along the sides of the boat to the forward head (both port and starboard sides) and the starboard galley cabinets for (future?) dishwasher and washer/dryer service. Also installed along the port side are the heater water hoses for the hydronic heating system.
red/white/blue water hose runs

Galley Cabinet Carcases 
Up till now these have just been dry fitted. Next is making the permanent attachment. All plumbing service has been installed behind the cabinets and there should be no more reasons to get behind there. So, permanent install can commence. As they are held in mechanically with numerous bolts, they can still be removed if needed, but as far as I can see, they can stay for the remainder of the build.
One of the cabinet carcases. Note the red/blue hot/cold water hose.

Ducting for Air Conditioning
I almost forgot this one. We are designing space for future AC units. The forward salon will be cooled by a 4 inch duct running behind the settee backrests, so I need to get 4 inch holes cut to accommodate.
Four inch vent ducting.

E-Board in the Engine Room
This one has yet to be started. All engine room projects are blocked until this is done. Holding this up is finding an adhesive method compatible with the plastic. While the e-board will be held to the walls with screws, I also want to spot some adhesive behind it as well. I do not believe epoxy will work on this plastic. Some possibilities I can think of include: methacrylate (Plexus) adhesive, 3M Super-77 (or Hi-strength 90) spray adhesive, or plain double sided tape(?). I need to run some compatibility tests with the various the glues.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Plumbing and PEX

Before the forward salon settees are permanently installed, I need to give thought to the hose runs for the domestic plumbing system. For ease and flexibility of installation we have chosen PEX tubing for the hose runs. This stuff is commonly used in RVs and household radiant floor systems. The tubing is a tough polyethylene material that fits a variety of "friction" fittings for valves, elbows, couplings, reducers, etc. No barbs or hose clamps. There are many manufacturers of these fittings made from materials like polymer plastics and brass. Name brands include Watts, SharkBite, SeaTech.
250 feet of pex tubing
The galley and both heads will have hot, cold and raw water (seawater) service.  There will be pressurized raw water service to the bow and stern for deck mounted washdown fittings (perhaps cold fresh water too).
Plan view of plumbing runs.
Details to come.

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Instant Paint Booth and HVLP Spraying

I want to paint the forward salon settee bits (masking any glue joints) before they are permanently installed. I realized that painting these bits by brush would take quite a large amount of time for both primer and color. So, I decided to take the plunge with HVLP spraying. HVLP stands for "high volume low pressure" and is a more efficient means of spraying than conventional pressure spraying. With HVLP, less paint is atomized into the air and more paint is directed to the target. We already had the HVLP equipment new stored away in a box for a couple years intended for another project that we never started.

Of course I need some sort of paint booth to contain the overspray. I sectioned off an 8 x 16 corner of the fence outside the shop with 2 x 4s and plastic sheeting. It is semi-permanent (until the next big wind storm rolls through).
Settee locker lid about to be shot.
I started shooting primer on the settee bits, experimenting with different adjustments on the gun. Lets just say I have no clue as to what I am doing (but you already knew that).  I am not that concerned with how perfect the finish turns out, since the settee bits will be concealed, or covered by cushions/upholstery. This makes the bits a perfect target for practice.

The pieces are primed with Interlux Pre-Kote White primer (their general purpose primer for single part paints). They will be topcoated with Interlux bilgekote, tinted off-white.

Saturday, January 07, 2012

Forward Salon Settee Dryfit

Everything is all cut and dry-fitted. I stopped when I noticed I was agonizing over a couple millimeters. Not perfect, but the imperfect bits will be covered by cushions and upholstery, and thats ok, right?

Port side settee

Starboard side settee
Next comes paint, glue and screws.

Wednesday, January 04, 2012


Special ordered over three months ago, and just in time for the new year, my two sheets of King E-Board came in. This is from the same company that makes King Starboard (a handy, plastic material that can be cut and assembled like plywood).

E-board is designed to simplify wiring and plumbing installations. It is a 4x8 sheet of 3/16" polymer plastic that has little raised "loops" molded into it that can be threaded with a zip tie. My idea is to clad the engine room with this stuff, then run the wiring and plumbing over it using zip ties. The motive behind this is that, over time, I fully expect "redo" wire runs and plumbing as equipment is added and removed. Having this stuff on the engine room walls will make the job easy. Just snip the old zip ties, remove or re-run the wire and hoses, with new zip ties. No more chewing up the walls with tapping screws for cushion clamps or other sorts of attachment doo-dads.

More on this later.