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Sunday, February 24, 2013

V-Berth Interior Test

This is a test of a finish approach for the V-Berth. In particular, cladding the hull sides over the insulation. I took a cheap neutral color sheet of plastic laminate and glued it to some doorskin. Then, from that cut three panels and affixed them to the hull sides using the pre-installed wooden cleats. Finally the seams were covered with some scrap teak molding I had lying around.

Again, this is just a test to give and idea. We want something durable, easy to clean, that will not turn the space into a "dark cave" (even with two planned port-lights it will still be dark).  If pursued, this would have corner moldings on all the edges. Probably a different color.


Rhys said...

Do you not have an overhead hatch in the V-berth? If so, I wouldn't worry much about any darkness, as I think that's a desirable quality for watchkeeping.

Our aft cabin is the V-berth equivalent, as our forepeak is the workshop with a single 7 x 14 hatch in the middle of a 24 inch square steel lid. Sure, it's a hatch...but it's a lot more like a lid. Anyway, the aft cabin just has two recessed 7 x 14" for ventilation, and is thickly insulated. I put 10" circular ports (NFM) in the pilothouse, which is loaded with hatches, as a) it's the least likely place to get spray, and b) I can't count on engine bay fans to get rid of all the engine heat. But to vent the saloon, we crack deck hatches and those aft cabin hatches, or start a couple of fans. To us, air exchange trumps light, and dry trumps wet. We are, after all, surrounded by outside.

I've had V-berth portlights leak on me on passage, and I would trade "somewhat dark" for "wet" any day. Just my .02. I'm not doctrinaire about it.

Robert Sutton said...

There will be two small opening portlights on the front of the cabin trunk. More for ventilation rather than light. Natural light in the v-berth is not a priority, but we still want to see when we switch on the lights. So some sort of light color, rather than dark hardwood, is desirable.

Bernie Cross said...

Hi Robert
I have been following your progress with great interest and must say you are doing some really cool stuff!
I have recently stumbled into a possible project myself .....a 40 foot aluminum hull in the raw, no mast or rigging and totally unfinished.
In all of your blog I can't find any budget info.....can you tell me what the budget and the real cost will be for just the finishing portion after clean out?

Robert Sutton said...

Budget? We don need no steenkin' budget! Ha.

Seriously, we have specific wants and requirements for features, brands and quality that occasionally change. So, trying to quantify costs and budgetize is kind of a waste.

Suffice to say that: we always pay cash, shop for the best price, consider costs when choosing features and design approaches.

The idea/hope is that we will have something we like/want with no debt.

That probably does not help, but that is how we are doing things.


Bernie Cross said...

Thanks Rob.........I do like your approach but you are right, it doesn't really help with what I'm trying to figure out. Do you have any idea on how many hours work you have put in just to do the interior? tah littl bit will help a ton if you have a rough number.....

Rhys said...

Thanks for the reply, Mr. Sutton.

To Bernie: I estimate I will end up spending about $75-$85K on my refit, or about half what I paid for my steel 41-footer. This includes a full repower (new diesel with custom features), new shaft, new Shaft Shark, new Aquadrive, new (likely Vetus) exhaust system, windvane, hydraulic AP, new feathering prop, new windlass, new water tanks, upgraded portlight, a helm seat capable of serving co-skippers a foot apart in height, a fair bit of custom welding and fabrication of metal pieces beyond my capacity, solar and wind generation, a small watermaker, an used Portabote and a new nesting, sailing tender, various bilge pumps, galley pumps and loads of hose, clamps and specialty tools (like a prop puller), about half a ton of Trojans I have yet to buy, and that's just the main stuff.

We aren't even on deck yet. I need a new main, a cruising genoa, a reefable staysail, new standing and running rigging, a radar, an AIS, and a new sounder. And probably a new, beefier ground tackle set-up, and loads of little cosmetic and wiring changes, which I will do.

The bad news is that yes, this is as expensive as renovating an old house and probably takes a lot longer. The good news is that it would take twice or three times as much as we are spending (and have spent to date) to create a boat capable of world cruising, including high latitudes. The other good news is that you inevitably learn a lot about a number of trades, even if you don't remotely master them. This serves you down the road, and preserves you in part from being the patsy of shady contractors.

We are keeping the existing steering, winches (adding a used pair of biggish Lewmars rehabbed by me, however) and the Lavac head that convinced my wife it was a sound vessel in the first place. The biggest structural change will likely be the hatch I am cutting into the upper half of the forward collision bulkhead to gain egress into the forepeak workshop without having to go on deck.

The other good news is that most of the enhancements we are making to a boat that, after all, was quite capable of sailing when we bought

Our point, which I suspect we have in common with Mr. Sutton, is that doing all this work oneself gives one an intimate knowledge of every aspect of the boat's construction, which, one hopes, inspires confidence and defers worry for more important things, like catching fish for dinner and devising new sundowner recipes.

Hope this has been of help...sorry for the length.

Robert Sutton said...


What Rhys said (thanks Rhys).

Unfortunately, I do not have any estimates on totals.

Suffice it to say there many options for building out a boat. Many options on choice/grade of materials. For example, you could go real cheap and use plain non-marine plywood (and pay for it later), or got with expensive composite materials design to last. Or somewhere in between.

Heck in the recent issue of Good Old Boat, was a picture of a restoration that appeared to have chip/particle board as a bulkhead! Real cheap, but I'd run away.


Bernie Cross said...

Thanks guys! This really does help.
I have about 4 years before I finally shut down the 9 to 5 and it looks like it will take all of that to complete this boat. The price is good I think and while nothing is finished it does come with a truck load of parts and stuff, motor included. I'll have to ponder this one real hard and of course get the admirals input.

Rhys said...

About the only advice I would give at this point is to never, ever nail your boat work to a calendar or tell people when you are finally "cutting the dock lines". Life, circumstances and your own foibles will sink the best-laid plans.

Colin said...

Robert, don't know if you ever saw this site but It is very well done. He is restoring a Fisher 30 that sank! Complete tear down and rebuild. The guy is really good and explains things well.There is a section in which he applies 1/4 cherry ply on the inside, I picked up a lot of good tips. Check it out.

Robert Sutton said...

Colin, thanks.

I saw his site some time ago. Yes he has a lot of good stuff up there as of late. A must read.

Colin said...

I am guessing that he is in the industry.